Category Archives: Heritage Breed

Preservation of Genetic Diversity

Cattle Profits: a breakdown

Cattle Profits (or at least our model)

Start up cost was $1200 per bred heifer and we purchased 3

First year feed costs were about $400

Lost rent per month   $210

Semen (30 Units)  $300

English: Murray Grey cows and calves, Walcha, NSW

English: Murray Grey cows and calves, Walcha, NSW (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

So our net cost at one year is $6820

Our costs at the two year point are $9340

At the two year point, we expect to receive approximately $2400 in revenue (two bull calves at $1 per pound and 1200 pound finishing weight).  We also will have a fourth heifer to breed at that point and hopefully 3 more calves on the ground.  If we reverse this year and have two heifers and one bull calve next year, we will have one more to sell at the three year point and 4 calves on the ground.  We will also have another $1200 in revenue at that point (which is actually a net loss for that year).  At this point we are continuing to build the breeding herd, so these loses are actually captured in the value of the cows themselves. Perhaps I will get this into some sort of graph form, as I should organize this better.

Year one  Costs (Rounded) $7000

Year one assets: 3 calves on the ground and three cows bred back.

Year One revenue : $0

Year two total costs $9500 (rounded)

Year two assets:  Three brood cows (bred back) One heifer calve (bred) and three more calves on the ground

Year two profits (sell two finished bull calves at 1200 pounds for $1 per pound) $2400 ($3600)  (beef price is $1.30 per pound and possibly headed higher)  We also sold $1500 worth of hay in the Spring due to our low stocking density.

So year two net loss in cash is $5600 ($4400)  (but we have assets of approximately $6600):  Four bred cows at $1200 each, plus the 3 additional calves on the ground.

Year three costs add $2520 (lost rent) to get to roughly $8200

Year three assets four cows (bred back) two heifers bred and four calves.

Year three profit $1200 ($1800) (I assumed two heifers and one bull in the second calf crop since the first calf crop was 2 bulls and one heifer).

So our net loses are now at $7000 ($5200) in hard cash.  But our assets are improving at $7200 in bred cattle and the four calves on the ground of about $2400.  This makes our total assets above our loses at this point.  Also keep in mind that I am figuring in no feed costs since we grass feed and do our hay on the half.  I am also not figuring in any loses.

Year four is where I truly think we are getting ahead, but it may be year five.

Year four costs add another $2520 in lost farm rent that takes us close to $9500 ($7700) in costs or losses.

Year four we sell two bull calves and keep two heifers so profit is once again $2400. ($3600)

This makes our losses, which are perceived losses, around $7100 ($3500)

Assets would include 6 broodcows, two more bred heifers, two more bull calves to finish and 6 calves.  Our assets will be more than losses at this point.  If needed, we can start to sell cows to capture back some of our losses.  Assets total about $9800 in bred animals and perhaps $2400 in the calves.

So at the end of year four, we are -$7100……..hmm this seems hard to swallow.  I guess the encouraging thing here is that we are only calculating the price per pound of beef to be $1.00.  I believe that current market price is actually $1.30/ lb.  If we can get the value to $1.50 per pound due to the grassfed aspect, we can recapture more of this loss at a faster rate.  I am going to edit above by putting the $1.50 per pound figure alongside the $1.00/lb figures to emphasize this point.  Looking inside the parenthesis above, increasing the value of beef from $1.00/lb to $1.50/lb cuts our loses in half at year four.

Year 5:  Another $2520 in lost rent.  Selling 2 more calves for beef nets $2400 ($3600).  So our overall loses are now either $7200 or ($2400).  Assets: 8 broodcows, 3 bred heifers, 8 calves and 3 yearling calves to finish.  This totals around $18,000 in assets.

Year 6: Another $2520 in lost rent. Able to sell 3 calves at $3600 ($5400).  Loses overall are now $6100 or $600.  Assets are increasing rapidly now.  These include 11 bred cows, 4 bred heifers, 4 yearling steers to sell and 11 calves.

Year 7:  Another $2520 in lost rent.  Selling 4 calves this year at $4800 ($7200).  Overall losses are coming down quickly now at $4800 (gains of $6600).  Assests are 15 brood cows, 5 bred heifers, 6 yearling steers to market and 15 calves.

I would keep up the illustration, but it is likely boring at this point.

I will do another post looking at the value to be added to this be purchasing an additional cow to produce calves quicker.

I also noted that I have failed to include the cost of purchasing additional semen.  I purposely did not figure other costs simply to keep it simple.

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Starting with Animals (Start with Chickens)

Start with Chickens

So where should a family start when thinking in terms of self-sufficiency?  May we suggest that you start with chickens?  Why chickens?  There are many reasons  that chickens are a great place to start.

A chicken. I'm not sure what breed.

A chicken (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

1)  Chickens do not require a lot of space.  A small outbuilding can be easily modified in order to accommodate chickens.

2)  Chickens are not too costly to purchase.  A laying hen can often be purchased for $5 per bird in our area.  This compares to a bred heifer, which would cost somewhere between $1200 and $1500.  Sheep and Goats generally cost $300 to $500 and up.

3)  Chickens are relatively self-sufficient.  Basic needs should be met.  Basic Equipment for chickens includes food, water, and shelter. They are easily amenable for free ranging.

4)  Chickens are fun to watch.  We enjoy watching our girls roam around scratching and looking for food.

5)  Chickens are omnivores, so they will eat about anything.  We feed everything from garden plants to table scraps.  Some people have even referred to chickens as pigs with wings.

6)  Chickens provide an ongoing source of food.  Our birds lay approximately one egg every other day.  Some lay more often and some lay less often.  Once the chicken is done laying, they can be “put in to the pot.”

7)  Chickens are easy to raise.

8)  Chickens are relatively safe for kids to be around.  The more you interact with your birds, the more tame they become. (Of course watch out if the rooster turns on you, that is a good indication that it is time for him to go into the pot)

Chickens

Chickens (Photo credit: Allie’s.Dad)

So what breed should I get?

The answer to this varies from farmer to farmer and location to location.  The most common breeds that are found on homesteads are Rhode Island Reds, Black Astralorps, and New Hampshire Red.  We are excited to know that there is a growing increase in the interest of raising heritage breeds.

There are many things to consider when choosing a breed.  Of course you can choose to get several breed to compare and then select you favorite.  The first step in the decision process is to decide what your intended use is.  Do you want a meat breed, an egg laying breed, or a dual purpose breed?  Do you want one that lays brown eggs, white eggs, green eggs, or blue eggs (yes there are chickens that lay green eggs, although we have yet to find the matching pig to produce green ham….you know green eggs and ham?).  Do you want a chicken that is particularly calm (temperment).  Do you want a chicken that is broody (likely to hatch its own eggs and rear its young)?  Do you want a cold tolerant or heat tolerate bird due to your local climate?   These are all things to consider when selecting a breed.  An interesting website is www.mypetchicken.com.  There is a breed selector location on the website.  This is where we selected our heritage, dual purpose, calm temperment, broody, brown egg laying breed…also know as the Delaware chicken.

A Delaware hen.

A Delaware hen. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

We also have a few Aracuanas, just to get those famous green eggs every once in a while.

 

So if not obvious by now, this is an easy place to start as far as animals go.  I will cover crops/ gardening suggestions at a later time.

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Delaware Chickens

 Delaware Chickens

Delaware chickens are a heritage breed that is listed among the threatened status on the American Livestock Breed Conservancy website.  The Delaware chicken is a dual purpose breed that lays brown eggs.  Being dual purpose, means that they are also good meat producing chickens.  Delaware chickens will grow at a moderate to good rate, yet not quite as fast as the commercial meat breeds of chickens.  The mature males weigh around 8 pounds, while the females reach a mature weight nearing 6 pounds.

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Delaware chickens have mainly white feathers, with black accents.  These black accents are generally referred to as barring.  The barring is mainly located around the neck of the males and females.  The males feature long black and white tail feathers and a predominant red comb and wattle.
image

 The skin on their legs are yellow.

Their bodies are long and broad.  The legs of Delaware chickens are very large and muscular.  Perhaps this makes them a hit with children who like to eat drumsticks.
image

 As a general rule, Delaware peeps are quick to grow feathers.  The Delaware breed tends to be cold tolerant.  They are somewhat active birds, that seem to stay rather docile.

For more about the Delaware chicken breed, please click on the link below.

American Livestock Breeds Conservancy: Delaware Chicken.

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New Heritage Breeds for Heritage Breeds Farm

New Heritage Breeds for Heritage Breeds Farm

That title may seem a bit of an oxymoron, as a heritage breed may be defined as one of the older breeds from times gone by.  I chose that title, as I am looking into possibly branching our farming operation out a bit more and getting an additional heritage breed to add into the mixture.  This will also be an expansion of our operation, by virtue of adding a new species into the mixture.  We currently feature two heritage breeds of animals: Red Poll Cattle and Delaware Chickens.

Currently, we are evaluating the possibility of adding sheep or goats.  I will probably break down the differences at a later point in time.  I will likely go into the various heritage breeds that we are considering at a later point in time as well.

At the moment, we are considering adding either San Clemente Island Goats or Santa Cruz Sheep.  These are two of the more limited heritage breeds of their respective species.  One reason that we are looking closely into this is a recent Craigslist posting offering three breeding females within our area.  These are three young Santa Cruz sheep that are being offered at a reasonable price.  He current breeder has them listed on Craigslist, so I am not certain what the demand will be via that format.

It is interesting to ponder these thoughts and ideas as we move forward with our farming operation.  Hopefully, we can expand and have a successful operation built upon the older types of animals, aka heritage breeds.

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Homesteading

Homestead

Homestead (Photo credit: chefranden)

As I think more and more about this blog, I feel that the topic is going to trend more toward homesteading and self-sufficiency.  I keep stumbling upon ideas about what to share.  Time and time again, I come back to self-reliance, self-sufficiency, and homesteading.

As a result of monitoring recent world events, I have become increasingly concerned with the stability of our current structure.  We get everything from centralized locations.  Now, I don’t mean to sound like a conspiracy theorist or somebody that is subscribing to the end of the world according to the Mayan calendar; but common sense and observation tell me that our current system is rather fragile.  I have it better than others as far as this goes due to my location in a rural area.  Should something disrupt our food supply (like an oil shortage, massive union strikes crippling transportation, some huge natural disaster or something else) I live near many people and farms that produce their own food.  I would have to look just over yonder hill to get milk.  (making the slogan “Got Milk” come to mind).

Mass food production02

Mass food production02 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Think about it for a minute, where does your food come from?  The answer is likely to be the store, right?  Perhaps it is because I have an interest in gardening and food production, but I feel that it is important for as many people to produce as much of their own food as possible.  This is vital to preservation of plant and food production.  This is perhaps one of the core values of homesteading.

It is also important to know what is in your food.  We encourage and believe in natural and non-chemical production as much as possible.  We recycle as much as we can into compost, the best all natural fertilizer available.  We also recycle our animal manures and the organic material (straw and sawdust) back onto the garden and into the the soil.  This is a basic system of building soil.

One reason that we have named our farm Heritage Breeds Farm is that we feature heritage breeds of animals.  These breeds are sometimes referred to as old breeds.  These breeds are noted for thriving in homesteading situations, making them perfect for this discussion.  Many people on homesteads will focus on dual purpose animals due to a smaller farm plot.  An example is cattle that produce both milk and meat or chickens that are noted for both egg and meat production.

Please check out our homesteading series for more information about homesteading.

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Homesteading Series Part 3: Animals

HOMESTEADING SERIES

PART THREE

ANIMALS

At this point in your homesteading plan, you may be ready to start planning for and thinking about animals.  (I probably start here rather than with plants, since animals are my profession and plants are my hobby).  You will ultimately assess your own needs, wants, desires and capabilities.  I will go through a few types common farm animals and give what I see as the pros and cons.  I will take this moment to push for heritage breed animals (see where the farm name is derived from?).  By using heritage breeds, you are able to preserve the past and also capitalize on some of their better traits, such as having dual purpose animals. Heritage breed animals may benefit you as well by being more likely to mother their young better than some of the more popular breeds on large farms nowadays.  For instance, a heritage chicken is much more likely to “go broody” than a factory leghorn would.

CHICKENS:  I have already written a post about why you should start with chickens, but I will lay out my thoughts again here.  First of all, Chickens are rather inexpensive to obtain.  We purchased our first six pullets (who were 17 weeks old and about to start laying) for $5 per bird.  So we were out about $30.  The second reason is that I feel chickens are very adaptable.  You can make a small chicken tractor or use an old outbuilding (like we did) and the chickens will do just fine.  Third, chickens are small.  This means that they don’t need a lot of space.  Fourth, chickens are easy to feed.  We feed our table scraps to the girls.  We are also fortunate to be able to purchase organic all mash at a local elevator fairly easily.  Fifth, Chickens provide a very nutritious product…..eggs.  Wait until you crack open your first farm fresh egg, especially if the chickens have access to grass and fields.   The yolk is almost orange, it is so dark.

A chicken. I'm not sure what breed.

Buff Orrpington (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The nutritional components of free range chicken eggs is incredible, nearly unbelievable in scope.  Sixth, chicken are fun to watch.  Seventh, you are unlikely to get hurt very badly by a chicken.  Eighth, a chicken that is no longer laying is still good for something……the pot.  You can make your own chicken stock, chicken foot broth, and many other stews and soups with the “retired” old girls.  (A side note:  we utilize Delaware Chickens as they are docile, go broody, produce eggs well, are dual purpose, and we think they are pretty)  (Other heritage breeds to consider are Buff Orrpingtons, Barred Plymouth Rock, Buckeyes, and many others)

Goats.  perhaps second on my list would be a dairy goat.  Though goats can be very frustrating because they do try to eat everything, goats are still rather small and readily available.

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk (Photo credit: Wikipedia)e

A decent dairy goat will probably cost you between $75 and $200 depending on age, breed, and time of year.  A nice thing about dairy goats is that they can produce a decent amount of milk.  When allowed to go out on pasture, they are good at cleaning up brush and unwanted plants, since they are more of a foraging animal and less of a grazer.  A downside to this is that various weeds can change the flavor of the milk.  Another good reason to consider a dairy goat is that the milk tends to be easier for some people to digest.  I believe that this is because the fat droplets are smaller than that of a dairy cow (or is it the protein droplets, I can’t remember at the moment)  We do not currently have a goat, so I am uncertain of a specific breed recommendation.  (we like the San Clemente Island Goat, but simply because they are very rare and are very cute)

Pigs:  Again unchartered water for us at the moment.  We are considering pigs for their versatility.  We are looking into pastured pork, so out focus is on breeds that do well in a foraging and pasture based management system.  Once again, pigs are reasonably priced.  Another good argument for pigs is their varied diet.  These are yet another animal that you can feed table scraps.  My understanding is that fencing pigs is not to difficult.  They apparently train to electric fencing very easily.  I have read that pigs will train uickly to two hot wires.  One at about 9 inches off the ground and another at about 30 inches off the ground.  They will train so well in fact, that it is hard to get them to cross an area that previously had a fence across it.  Most articles I have found simply use polywire or another form of electrified temporary fencing like those used in rotational grazing systems.  (We like Tamworth and Gloucestershire Old Spots for pig breeds.  Red Wattles get an honorary mention)

Sheep:  I suppose sheep are in the fold here too.  Sheep are again easy to obtain and not too expensive.

High sheeps

High sheeps (Photo credit: Bertoz)

Uses for the sheep would be meat and wool.  We do not have sheep at the moment, as we do not see spinning our own wool.  Sheep are grazers, so now we are starting to look at more infrastructure.  They will likely need a barn, a yard and fencing.  This adds to the cost of them of course.  (We have yet to select a breed, though I am intrigued by the Romeldale breed.

Cattle:  I would recommend a good dual purpose breed, but you could have a dairy cow and beef cows.  Most true homesteads likely have a good old dairy cow on hand.  A dairy cow will likely cost about $1500 or so, depending on age, breed and quality.  Some decent cow can be purchase through sale barns for less money, but beware that the farmer is likely selling her through the sale barn for a reason.  Cattle require feed and infrastructure as well.  You will need a tie stall or other location for milking.  You will need fencing for the pasture, or else be ready to push a lot of hay and grain around.  (We think the the Red Poll cow is the perfect breed for this, as they are good foragers. grazers and they are dual purpose)  (Other breeds to consider would be Milking Devon, Shorthorn, Kerry, and Dexter)

I also recommend a good old farm dog.  They are great companions, good for security and even can help with some of the round up of the critters if trained to do so.  They can also be helpful with pests, such as the infamous “whistle pig” ( A.K.A. Groundhog.)

Hopefully I have touched on the main animals for homesteading.  If I have left any pertinent ones out, please let me know.  I am sure that some are fond of Llamas for guard animals protecting their flock of sheep.  Some may like Alpacas for the hair production.  I suppose that I left turkeys out as well.  They have their place too, just not at the top of my list.  Their place, to me, is on the thanksgiving table.

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Post 200: Our Farming Principles

600 and 200:  What do those Numbers mean?  Well 600 is the number of views on the website and 200 is the number of posts.  This post represents the 200th overall post here at heritagebreedsfarm.com.  We are excited to have hit this milestone.  An interesting point to note is that today is the 264th day of the year.  This means that we have generated about 5 posts per week.

English: Three chicken eggs of contrasting col...

Well, with this milestone, I felt it appropriate to summarize what we represent and what we strive to achieve.  Our theories and principles are as follows:

  1. A return to the family farm.  We feel that nothing can be better than the farm life.  Though it can be hard and trying at times, there are many advantages to farming.  We believe that the farm life is centered around the family first.  We can teach our children to be helpful and responsible by raising animals.  If the animals are dependent upon them, it gives them a much greater sense of responsibility than simply whether or not they clean their rooms or take their dishes to the sink. We want to teach our children that their actions have an effect on life and lack of responsibility has consequences.
  2. A respect for the Creator‘s creation.  Not that I did not say respect for the environment.  I state it this way because God calls us to work the land and to be CARETAKERS.  Why the bold?  Well, unfortunately it seems as though Christians are opposed to environmentalism.  I believe that this is due to the fact that environmentalism is basically a religion that serves to worship the creation (environment) rather than the creator.  Yet, as Christians, we are called to protect the creation.  We practice organic practices for this reason.  God created this planet and I feel that we do not need toxic, synthetic chemicals to try to preserve it.  We simply need to not be destructive and truly care for the land, while using it at the same time.
  3. Organic Principles:  We promote organic principles, not only for the good of the land, but ultimately for the good of the consumer (us).  It is our belief that raising organic meat, eggs and vegetables is better for the end consumer due to fewer antibiotic residues and fewer chemical components potentially getting into the end product, such as the meat or eggs.
  4. Free ranging/ natural approaches.  We believe that not only is this better and more humane for the animal, but this produces a better end product as well.  An example of this practice is free range chicken eggs.  Click here to see why free range chicken eggs are superior to eggs produced by factory farming.
  5. Using Heritage Breeds.  We use heritage breeds as they are well-suited to produce in a smaller setting.  These breeds have fallen out of favor because they do not thrive in a factory farming environment.  Factory farming is set up based on intensive practices.  Animals are often fed a TMR (Total mixed ration) instead of a more natural roughage-based diet.  They are also fed grain-based diets in order to push them to higher production levels.
  6. Grass Fed Principles:  This may follow on the heels of the above principle, but it is important to what we believe.  Click HERE for a link to a posting regarding grass fed beef in particular.  Click HERE for the article about free range chicken eggs.
We would love for you to become a follower of our website.  Hopefully you find our principles and articles helpful.
Until Next Time!
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