Grass Fed Beef Hamburgers
Our recipe for grass fed beef hamburgers:
We start with the fundamental basics of well raised grass fed beef.
We then form the patties and add the following ingredients: powdered onion, black pepper, a touch of salt and some worcestershire sauce.
The meat needs to be seared briefly on both sides at first. This helps to seal in the juices. This is one of the differences with grass fed beef versus traditional beef. We then turn the heat down to low in order to slowly finish the process.
Notice how the meat is not dripping with greasy fat and that the fire underneath does not kick up. This is due to the lower fat content.
A closer look at the picture above does demonstrate that there is some fat and flavor in there. Look at how the meat is shining on the top and appears to be “wet.”
Above is the finished product, well almost……
Sorry for the blurry picture, but here is the finished product on our plate. Coupling the Burger with a nice side of fries and green beans, which are naturally grown.
Sample AD for Grass Fed Beef.
English: Diagram of cuts of beef, highlighting the sirloin. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
All Natural Grass Fed Black Angus Beef for sale. All animals on this farm are fed with hay only. No Corn, no feed, no antibiotics, no hormones, no pink slime.
It’s your body, eat healthy!
This package includes 2 T-Bone steaks, 2 Sirloin steaks, 4 cubed steaks, 1 roast, 18 hamburger patties, and 3 – 1 lb 10 oz packages of hamburger for $100. (18-20 lbs total)
These are the common British cuts of beef. Based on Image:Beef cuts.svg (american cuts of beef); See also Image:Beef parts HE.svg (Hebrew version) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
I saw this ad today on our local Craigslist site. I was wondering how that compares to a “traditional” cow in terms of pricing. That is $5.00 per pound for 20 pounds of beef. This does include processing.
The Challenge of Containing Chickens
Containing chickens is perhaps one of the biggest challenges to raising free range chickens. Our farm is a testimony to the wonderfully destructive nature of chickens. Chickens have a natural tendency to scratch as they forage. This behavior seems to give them a natural homing beacon for flower beds and the vegetable garden. The best time of the year for our ladies appears to be immediately following the distribution of mulch in our flowerbeds. It seems the the nice mulched look quickly gives way to the “mulch-all-over-the-yard” look. Or perhaps it is better known as “mulch-on-the-walkways” look.
There are many opinions on containing chickens. One opinion (which we have not tried partly due to cost) is that a six foot high fence system will keep the birds in their pens. I do think this will work well, however the cost of this fence structure is very prohibitive. The installation would likely need to be done by a professional. A downfall of this system would be removal once the metal finally degrades. I would suspect a 30 to 40 year lifespan, which would help to offset the cost or at least spread it out over the many years.
Another option for containing chickens is to put up woven wire fencing. This typically comes in 48 inch high rolls that are in 100 or 300 foot lengths. 8 foot wooden posts are usually placed very 10 feet adding to the cost of this system. I also believe that this system requires some poultry netting in addition to the woven wire, as the holes near the bottom are large enough for a hen to climb through. (I have witnessed this firsthand). Some people add a hot wire toward the bottom for both predator control and to encourage the chickens to stay contained within the fence.
Alternatively, people have used snow fencing. Snow fencing should have close enough slat to contain chickens and to keep predators out. Snow fencing would perhaps be a little unsightly. There are two types of fencing that I refer to as snow fence. The first is a combination of wire intertwined around one inch vertical slats. The second is an orange, grid-shaped/ diamond patterned roll of flexible plastic. Both would work well for chickens.
I suppose that some sort of high tensile could be used as well. The wires would have to be numerous and spaced every inch or so toward the bottom, gradually increasing the distance in between the wires as the fence is built higher. If electrified, this fencing system would perhaps keep chickens in and predators out. The big downfall to this system would be the need for frequent weed control to keep the grass and weeds from contacting the lowest electrified wire….resulting in a short.
A traditional approach is to mount hexagonal chicken wire onto posts. The posts can be either metal T-posts, or more permanent wooden posts. This chicken wire has very small, hexagonal-shaped holes. The holes are small enough to keep even the smallest peeps inside the pen. The problem with this fencing system is the weakness of the wire itself. If the posts are places close enough (6 to 8 feet apart) and the fencing is stretched fairly tight, the weakness may be overcome.
As seen in the picture above, we have elected to try a system called electric poultry netting. We purchased two, 110 foot long rolls can a charger to electrify the fence. We do have an occasional chicken that performs its own fly over, but the system has held up well so far. One nice feature is that the fence is easy to move. This allows us to change the range area that the chickens can access. This allows the grass to recover from being eaten and trampled. It also helps to spread the chicken manure around, thereby spreading out potential parasites and keeping the burden down in any one area. We have yet to attach the electric fence charger, due to lack of time (well actually simple laziness). Even without the charger, the chickens stay in for the most part thanks to wing clipping.
On a side note: We have likely had some coccidia, as we so not utilize coccidiostats. We feel that this allows for a natural immunity once the birds have been infected. By moving the pasture access. the coccidia does not concentrate in any one area.
600 and 200: What do those Numbers mean? Well 600 is the number of views on the website and 200 is the number of posts. This post represents the 200th overall post here at heritagebreedsfarm.com. We are excited to have hit this milestone. An interesting point to note is that today is the 264th day of the year. This means that we have generated about 5 posts per week.
Well, with this milestone, I felt it appropriate to summarize what we represent and what we strive to achieve. Our theories and principles are as follows:
- A return to the family farm. We feel that nothing can be better than the farm life. Though it can be hard and trying at times, there are many advantages to farming. We believe that the farm life is centered around the family first. We can teach our children to be helpful and responsible by raising animals. If the animals are dependent upon them, it gives them a much greater sense of responsibility than simply whether or not they clean their rooms or take their dishes to the sink. We want to teach our children that their actions have an effect on life and lack of responsibility has consequences.
- A respect for the Creator‘s creation. Not that I did not say respect for the environment. I state it this way because God calls us to work the land and to be CARETAKERS. Why the bold? Well, unfortunately it seems as though Christians are opposed to environmentalism. I believe that this is due to the fact that environmentalism is basically a religion that serves to worship the creation (environment) rather than the creator. Yet, as Christians, we are called to protect the creation. We practice organic practices for this reason. God created this planet and I feel that we do not need toxic, synthetic chemicals to try to preserve it. We simply need to not be destructive and truly care for the land, while using it at the same time.
- Organic Principles: We promote organic principles, not only for the good of the land, but ultimately for the good of the consumer (us). It is our belief that raising organic meat, eggs and vegetables is better for the end consumer due to fewer antibiotic residues and fewer chemical components potentially getting into the end product, such as the meat or eggs.
- Free ranging/ natural approaches. We believe that not only is this better and more humane for the animal, but this produces a better end product as well. An example of this practice is free range chicken eggs. Click here to see why free range chicken eggs are superior to eggs produced by factory farming.
- Using Heritage Breeds. We use heritage breeds as they are well-suited to produce in a smaller setting. These breeds have fallen out of favor because they do not thrive in a factory farming environment. Factory farming is set up based on intensive practices. Animals are often fed a TMR (Total mixed ration) instead of a more natural roughage-based diet. They are also fed grain-based diets in order to push them to higher production levels.
- Grass Fed Principles: This may follow on the heels of the above principle, but it is important to what we believe. Click HERE for a link to a posting regarding grass fed beef in particular. Click HERE for the article about free range chicken eggs.
We would love for you to become a follower of our website. Hopefully you find our principles and articles helpful.
Until Next Time!