Category Archives: Free-range

Starting with Animals (Start with Chickens)

Start with Chickens

So where should a family start when thinking in terms of self-sufficiency?  May we suggest that you start with chickens?  Why chickens?  There are many reasons  that chickens are a great place to start.

A chicken. I'm not sure what breed.

A chicken (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

1)  Chickens do not require a lot of space.  A small outbuilding can be easily modified in order to accommodate chickens.

2)  Chickens are not too costly to purchase.  A laying hen can often be purchased for $5 per bird in our area.  This compares to a bred heifer, which would cost somewhere between $1200 and $1500.  Sheep and Goats generally cost $300 to $500 and up.

3)  Chickens are relatively self-sufficient.  Basic needs should be met.  Basic Equipment for chickens includes food, water, and shelter. They are easily amenable for free ranging.

4)  Chickens are fun to watch.  We enjoy watching our girls roam around scratching and looking for food.

5)  Chickens are omnivores, so they will eat about anything.  We feed everything from garden plants to table scraps.  Some people have even referred to chickens as pigs with wings.

6)  Chickens provide an ongoing source of food.  Our birds lay approximately one egg every other day.  Some lay more often and some lay less often.  Once the chicken is done laying, they can be “put in to the pot.”

7)  Chickens are easy to raise.

8)  Chickens are relatively safe for kids to be around.  The more you interact with your birds, the more tame they become. (Of course watch out if the rooster turns on you, that is a good indication that it is time for him to go into the pot)

Chickens

Chickens (Photo credit: Allie’s.Dad)

So what breed should I get?

The answer to this varies from farmer to farmer and location to location.  The most common breeds that are found on homesteads are Rhode Island Reds, Black Astralorps, and New Hampshire Red.  We are excited to know that there is a growing increase in the interest of raising heritage breeds.

There are many things to consider when choosing a breed.  Of course you can choose to get several breed to compare and then select you favorite.  The first step in the decision process is to decide what your intended use is.  Do you want a meat breed, an egg laying breed, or a dual purpose breed?  Do you want one that lays brown eggs, white eggs, green eggs, or blue eggs (yes there are chickens that lay green eggs, although we have yet to find the matching pig to produce green ham….you know green eggs and ham?).  Do you want a chicken that is particularly calm (temperment).  Do you want a chicken that is broody (likely to hatch its own eggs and rear its young)?  Do you want a cold tolerant or heat tolerate bird due to your local climate?   These are all things to consider when selecting a breed.  An interesting website is www.mypetchicken.com.  There is a breed selector location on the website.  This is where we selected our heritage, dual purpose, calm temperment, broody, brown egg laying breed…also know as the Delaware chicken.

A Delaware hen.

A Delaware hen. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

We also have a few Aracuanas, just to get those famous green eggs every once in a while.

 

So if not obvious by now, this is an easy place to start as far as animals go.  I will cover crops/ gardening suggestions at a later time.

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Homesteading Series Part 3: Animals

HOMESTEADING SERIES

PART THREE

ANIMALS

At this point in your homesteading plan, you may be ready to start planning for and thinking about animals.  (I probably start here rather than with plants, since animals are my profession and plants are my hobby).  You will ultimately assess your own needs, wants, desires and capabilities.  I will go through a few types common farm animals and give what I see as the pros and cons.  I will take this moment to push for heritage breed animals (see where the farm name is derived from?).  By using heritage breeds, you are able to preserve the past and also capitalize on some of their better traits, such as having dual purpose animals. Heritage breed animals may benefit you as well by being more likely to mother their young better than some of the more popular breeds on large farms nowadays.  For instance, a heritage chicken is much more likely to “go broody” than a factory leghorn would.

CHICKENS:  I have already written a post about why you should start with chickens, but I will lay out my thoughts again here.  First of all, Chickens are rather inexpensive to obtain.  We purchased our first six pullets (who were 17 weeks old and about to start laying) for $5 per bird.  So we were out about $30.  The second reason is that I feel chickens are very adaptable.  You can make a small chicken tractor or use an old outbuilding (like we did) and the chickens will do just fine.  Third, chickens are small.  This means that they don’t need a lot of space.  Fourth, chickens are easy to feed.  We feed our table scraps to the girls.  We are also fortunate to be able to purchase organic all mash at a local elevator fairly easily.  Fifth, Chickens provide a very nutritious product…..eggs.  Wait until you crack open your first farm fresh egg, especially if the chickens have access to grass and fields.   The yolk is almost orange, it is so dark.

A chicken. I'm not sure what breed.

Buff Orrpington (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The nutritional components of free range chicken eggs is incredible, nearly unbelievable in scope.  Sixth, chicken are fun to watch.  Seventh, you are unlikely to get hurt very badly by a chicken.  Eighth, a chicken that is no longer laying is still good for something……the pot.  You can make your own chicken stock, chicken foot broth, and many other stews and soups with the “retired” old girls.  (A side note:  we utilize Delaware Chickens as they are docile, go broody, produce eggs well, are dual purpose, and we think they are pretty)  (Other heritage breeds to consider are Buff Orrpingtons, Barred Plymouth Rock, Buckeyes, and many others)

Goats.  perhaps second on my list would be a dairy goat.  Though goats can be very frustrating because they do try to eat everything, goats are still rather small and readily available.

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk (Photo credit: Wikipedia)e

A decent dairy goat will probably cost you between $75 and $200 depending on age, breed, and time of year.  A nice thing about dairy goats is that they can produce a decent amount of milk.  When allowed to go out on pasture, they are good at cleaning up brush and unwanted plants, since they are more of a foraging animal and less of a grazer.  A downside to this is that various weeds can change the flavor of the milk.  Another good reason to consider a dairy goat is that the milk tends to be easier for some people to digest.  I believe that this is because the fat droplets are smaller than that of a dairy cow (or is it the protein droplets, I can’t remember at the moment)  We do not currently have a goat, so I am uncertain of a specific breed recommendation.  (we like the San Clemente Island Goat, but simply because they are very rare and are very cute)

Pigs:  Again unchartered water for us at the moment.  We are considering pigs for their versatility.  We are looking into pastured pork, so out focus is on breeds that do well in a foraging and pasture based management system.  Once again, pigs are reasonably priced.  Another good argument for pigs is their varied diet.  These are yet another animal that you can feed table scraps.  My understanding is that fencing pigs is not to difficult.  They apparently train to electric fencing very easily.  I have read that pigs will train uickly to two hot wires.  One at about 9 inches off the ground and another at about 30 inches off the ground.  They will train so well in fact, that it is hard to get them to cross an area that previously had a fence across it.  Most articles I have found simply use polywire or another form of electrified temporary fencing like those used in rotational grazing systems.  (We like Tamworth and Gloucestershire Old Spots for pig breeds.  Red Wattles get an honorary mention)

Sheep:  I suppose sheep are in the fold here too.  Sheep are again easy to obtain and not too expensive.

High sheeps

High sheeps (Photo credit: Bertoz)

Uses for the sheep would be meat and wool.  We do not have sheep at the moment, as we do not see spinning our own wool.  Sheep are grazers, so now we are starting to look at more infrastructure.  They will likely need a barn, a yard and fencing.  This adds to the cost of them of course.  (We have yet to select a breed, though I am intrigued by the Romeldale breed.

Cattle:  I would recommend a good dual purpose breed, but you could have a dairy cow and beef cows.  Most true homesteads likely have a good old dairy cow on hand.  A dairy cow will likely cost about $1500 or so, depending on age, breed and quality.  Some decent cow can be purchase through sale barns for less money, but beware that the farmer is likely selling her through the sale barn for a reason.  Cattle require feed and infrastructure as well.  You will need a tie stall or other location for milking.  You will need fencing for the pasture, or else be ready to push a lot of hay and grain around.  (We think the the Red Poll cow is the perfect breed for this, as they are good foragers. grazers and they are dual purpose)  (Other breeds to consider would be Milking Devon, Shorthorn, Kerry, and Dexter)

I also recommend a good old farm dog.  They are great companions, good for security and even can help with some of the round up of the critters if trained to do so.  They can also be helpful with pests, such as the infamous “whistle pig” ( A.K.A. Groundhog.)

Hopefully I have touched on the main animals for homesteading.  If I have left any pertinent ones out, please let me know.  I am sure that some are fond of Llamas for guard animals protecting their flock of sheep.  Some may like Alpacas for the hair production.  I suppose that I left turkeys out as well.  They have their place too, just not at the top of my list.  Their place, to me, is on the thanksgiving table.

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The 8 Cruelest Foods You eat

Ironically I found the following article describing the 8 cruelest foods you eat. http://health.yahoo.net/articles/nutrition/photos/8-cruelest-foods-you-eat#0

I am not certain on the origin of the article, nor the intent behind its writing; but I could make a guess.  However, that is a discussion for another time and place.  The article was one of those pop ups or featured articles that caught my eye on the way to checking my e-mail.

So why bring it up?  Well, it fits into the discussion of animal rights versus animal welfare.  It also highlights some of the things that we strive for here at Heritage Breeds Farms.  The article discusses some things that we do not produce and that are more rare meals or things considered delicacies.  It cites things such as Lobster, duck liver and shark fin soup.  Those are not typically things that are produced on a typical farm within the United States or farms in other countries around the world.

The article also cites the atrocities associated with raising beef, eggs, veal, and pork.  While we are mainly concerned with the final product, we also feel that they manner in which the animals are treated is important as well.  We have written many article regarding alternative ways to raise animals to produce these products.  We also try to stress the quality of the final product for the end consumer.

Here are a few ways that these desired products can be produced in a healthier manner:

1)  Veal:  Several state have outlawed the use of veal crates.  This is a method where the calf is confined to a small crate (or tethered on a short rope or chain).  Two ways to raise these calves are group housing or pasture-raised veal.

2)  Pork:  We believe that pasture raised pork is superior to grain fed, intensively raised pork.  By allowing the pigs to be out on the pasture, they are able to forage and root for various nutrients.  This allows the pigs to act more naturally.

3)  Beef:  We have many places where we discuss the benefits of pasture-raised and grass fed beef.  These animals are allowed to roam freely and eat a natural diet, versus the more typical grain fed beef that tends to be confined.  We raise our animals on pasture more for the benefits of the final product than the way that the animals are treated, but allowing them a more natural setting benefits the animals as well.

4)  Eggs:  The concern is about hens being kept in small cages.  The article suggests buying cage free and organic, but I recommend free range chickens and eggs from free range chickens.

One further note, we stress buying local.  It is important to support your local farmers market.  We also recommend buying your meat and other products as directly from the farm as possible.  This way you can visit the place where the products are produced and evaluate the farm for yourself.

A few of our articles are listed below.  You may also search the website for pasture veal and pastured pork.

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Containing chickens

image

The Challenge of Containing Chickens

Containing chickens is perhaps one of the biggest challenges to raising free range chickens.  Our farm is a testimony to the wonderfully destructive nature of chickens.  Chickens have a natural tendency to scratch as they forage.  This behavior seems to give them a natural homing beacon for flower beds and the vegetable garden.  The best time of the year for our ladies appears to be immediately following the distribution of mulch in our flowerbeds.  It seems the the nice mulched look quickly gives way to the “mulch-all-over-the-yard” look.  Or perhaps it is better known as “mulch-on-the-walkways” look.
There are many opinions on containing chickens.  One opinion (which we have not tried partly due to cost) is that a six foot high fence system will keep the birds in their pens.  I do think this will work well, however the cost of this fence structure is very prohibitive.  The installation would likely need to be done by a professional.  A downfall of this system would be removal once the metal finally degrades.  I would suspect a 30 to 40 year lifespan, which would help to offset the cost or at least spread it out over the many years.

Another option for containing chickens is to put up woven wire fencing.  This typically comes in 48 inch high rolls that are in 100 or 300 foot lengths.  8 foot wooden posts are usually placed very 10 feet adding to the cost of this system.  I also believe that this system requires some poultry netting in addition to the woven wire, as the holes near the bottom are large enough for a hen to climb through.  (I have witnessed this firsthand).  Some people add a hot wire toward the bottom for both predator control and to encourage the chickens to stay contained within the fence.

Alternatively, people have used snow fencing.  Snow fencing should have close enough slat to contain chickens and to keep predators out.  Snow fencing would perhaps be a little unsightly.  There are two types of fencing that I refer to as snow fence.  The first is a combination of wire intertwined around one inch vertical slats.  The second is an orange, grid-shaped/ diamond patterned roll of flexible plastic.  Both would work well for chickens.

I suppose that some sort of high tensile could be used as well.  The wires would have to be numerous and spaced every inch or so toward the bottom, gradually increasing the distance in between the wires as the fence is built higher.  If electrified, this fencing system would perhaps keep chickens in and predators out.  The big downfall to this system would be the need for frequent weed control to keep the grass and weeds from contacting the lowest electrified wire….resulting in a short.

A traditional approach is to mount hexagonal chicken wire onto posts.  The posts can be either metal T-posts, or more permanent wooden posts.  This chicken wire has very small, hexagonal-shaped holes.  The holes are small enough to keep even the smallest peeps inside the pen.  The problem with this fencing system is the weakness of the wire itself.  If the posts are places close enough (6 to 8 feet apart) and the fencing is stretched fairly tight, the weakness may be overcome.
image

As seen in the picture above, we have elected to try a system called electric poultry netting.  We purchased two, 110 foot long rolls can a charger to electrify the fence.  We do have an occasional chicken that performs its own fly over, but the system has held up well so far.  One nice feature is that the fence is easy to move.  This allows us to change the range area that the chickens can access.  This allows the grass to recover from being eaten and trampled.  It also helps to spread the chicken manure around, thereby spreading out potential parasites and keeping the burden down in any one area. We have yet to attach the electric fence charger, due to lack of time (well actually simple laziness).  Even without the charger, the chickens stay in for the most part thanks to wing clipping.

On a side note:  We have likely had some coccidia, as we so not utilize coccidiostats.  We feel that this allows for a natural immunity once the birds have been infected.  By moving the pasture access. the coccidia does not concentrate in any one area.

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Post 200: Our Farming Principles

600 and 200:  What do those Numbers mean?  Well 600 is the number of views on the website and 200 is the number of posts.  This post represents the 200th overall post here at heritagebreedsfarm.com.  We are excited to have hit this milestone.  An interesting point to note is that today is the 264th day of the year.  This means that we have generated about 5 posts per week.

English: Three chicken eggs of contrasting col...

Well, with this milestone, I felt it appropriate to summarize what we represent and what we strive to achieve.  Our theories and principles are as follows:

  1. A return to the family farm.  We feel that nothing can be better than the farm life.  Though it can be hard and trying at times, there are many advantages to farming.  We believe that the farm life is centered around the family first.  We can teach our children to be helpful and responsible by raising animals.  If the animals are dependent upon them, it gives them a much greater sense of responsibility than simply whether or not they clean their rooms or take their dishes to the sink. We want to teach our children that their actions have an effect on life and lack of responsibility has consequences.
  2. A respect for the Creator‘s creation.  Not that I did not say respect for the environment.  I state it this way because God calls us to work the land and to be CARETAKERS.  Why the bold?  Well, unfortunately it seems as though Christians are opposed to environmentalism.  I believe that this is due to the fact that environmentalism is basically a religion that serves to worship the creation (environment) rather than the creator.  Yet, as Christians, we are called to protect the creation.  We practice organic practices for this reason.  God created this planet and I feel that we do not need toxic, synthetic chemicals to try to preserve it.  We simply need to not be destructive and truly care for the land, while using it at the same time.
  3. Organic Principles:  We promote organic principles, not only for the good of the land, but ultimately for the good of the consumer (us).  It is our belief that raising organic meat, eggs and vegetables is better for the end consumer due to fewer antibiotic residues and fewer chemical components potentially getting into the end product, such as the meat or eggs.
  4. Free ranging/ natural approaches.  We believe that not only is this better and more humane for the animal, but this produces a better end product as well.  An example of this practice is free range chicken eggs.  Click here to see why free range chicken eggs are superior to eggs produced by factory farming.
  5. Using Heritage Breeds.  We use heritage breeds as they are well-suited to produce in a smaller setting.  These breeds have fallen out of favor because they do not thrive in a factory farming environment.  Factory farming is set up based on intensive practices.  Animals are often fed a TMR (Total mixed ration) instead of a more natural roughage-based diet.  They are also fed grain-based diets in order to push them to higher production levels.
  6. Grass Fed Principles:  This may follow on the heels of the above principle, but it is important to what we believe.  Click HERE for a link to a posting regarding grass fed beef in particular.  Click HERE for the article about free range chicken eggs.
We would love for you to become a follower of our website.  Hopefully you find our principles and articles helpful.
Until Next Time!
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