Category Archives: Foraging

Intensive Grazing

Intensive Grazing

 

We plan to raise our animals in order to achieve the best end product. One of the ways to do this is to use what God normally provides to the animals in their natural setting.

 

Pastures ~ HFF ~ Happy Fence Friday

Pastures ~ HFF ~ Happy Fence Friday (Photo credit: Chickens in the Trees (vns2009))

The main method that we are focusing on is pastured-based management.  In order to achieve this, we will utilize the pasture most effectively, which we believe is through intensive grazing. We have not officially launched our intensive grazing strategy, as we have more land than animals at the moment, but we have plans to begin once the animal to acre ratio is reached.
Our first step in this process is to upgrade the current pasture and the available forages. The saying that you are what you eat applies to:
1) Those of us eating the final product
2) The animals that are eating the plants and thus producing the final product
3) The plants.

 

So what is the basis of this system? The answer is the soil. The soil is perhaps the most important aspect of any operation as better soil equals better plant production (whether talking about hay, corn, soybeans, or simply pasture/ forages).  We are trying to implement organic, or natural, methods to our farming operation.  This is what we feel is the best method for the soil and for what we would like to accomplish.

 

Soil profile 236x288 38.76 KB. Units are inches.

Soil profile 236×288 38.76 KB. Units are inches. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

The soils is an intricate ecosystem made up of living, non-living and other materials.  The plants use the soil to convert sunlight (photosynthesis) and the soil nutrients into plant growth.  This plant growth is ultimately what feed either us directly or the animals that we eventually either consume or collect a byproduct (think milk and eggs).  The soil also has a substructure to it, which allows for water movement, air, and nutrient uptake.  
So our first step is going to need to be to test the soil and try to build the nutrients that are contained in the soil.  This may be the focus of this blog for a small amount of time. We will talk about the process and provide as many details as we can.

 

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Homesteading Series Part 3: Animals

HOMESTEADING SERIES

PART THREE

ANIMALS

At this point in your homesteading plan, you may be ready to start planning for and thinking about animals.  (I probably start here rather than with plants, since animals are my profession and plants are my hobby).  You will ultimately assess your own needs, wants, desires and capabilities.  I will go through a few types common farm animals and give what I see as the pros and cons.  I will take this moment to push for heritage breed animals (see where the farm name is derived from?).  By using heritage breeds, you are able to preserve the past and also capitalize on some of their better traits, such as having dual purpose animals. Heritage breed animals may benefit you as well by being more likely to mother their young better than some of the more popular breeds on large farms nowadays.  For instance, a heritage chicken is much more likely to “go broody” than a factory leghorn would.

CHICKENS:  I have already written a post about why you should start with chickens, but I will lay out my thoughts again here.  First of all, Chickens are rather inexpensive to obtain.  We purchased our first six pullets (who were 17 weeks old and about to start laying) for $5 per bird.  So we were out about $30.  The second reason is that I feel chickens are very adaptable.  You can make a small chicken tractor or use an old outbuilding (like we did) and the chickens will do just fine.  Third, chickens are small.  This means that they don’t need a lot of space.  Fourth, chickens are easy to feed.  We feed our table scraps to the girls.  We are also fortunate to be able to purchase organic all mash at a local elevator fairly easily.  Fifth, Chickens provide a very nutritious product…..eggs.  Wait until you crack open your first farm fresh egg, especially if the chickens have access to grass and fields.   The yolk is almost orange, it is so dark.

A chicken. I'm not sure what breed.

Buff Orrpington (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The nutritional components of free range chicken eggs is incredible, nearly unbelievable in scope.  Sixth, chicken are fun to watch.  Seventh, you are unlikely to get hurt very badly by a chicken.  Eighth, a chicken that is no longer laying is still good for something……the pot.  You can make your own chicken stock, chicken foot broth, and many other stews and soups with the “retired” old girls.  (A side note:  we utilize Delaware Chickens as they are docile, go broody, produce eggs well, are dual purpose, and we think they are pretty)  (Other heritage breeds to consider are Buff Orrpingtons, Barred Plymouth Rock, Buckeyes, and many others)

Goats.  perhaps second on my list would be a dairy goat.  Though goats can be very frustrating because they do try to eat everything, goats are still rather small and readily available.

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk

Nigerian Dwarf dairy goat, show clip, in milk (Photo credit: Wikipedia)e

A decent dairy goat will probably cost you between $75 and $200 depending on age, breed, and time of year.  A nice thing about dairy goats is that they can produce a decent amount of milk.  When allowed to go out on pasture, they are good at cleaning up brush and unwanted plants, since they are more of a foraging animal and less of a grazer.  A downside to this is that various weeds can change the flavor of the milk.  Another good reason to consider a dairy goat is that the milk tends to be easier for some people to digest.  I believe that this is because the fat droplets are smaller than that of a dairy cow (or is it the protein droplets, I can’t remember at the moment)  We do not currently have a goat, so I am uncertain of a specific breed recommendation.  (we like the San Clemente Island Goat, but simply because they are very rare and are very cute)

Pigs:  Again unchartered water for us at the moment.  We are considering pigs for their versatility.  We are looking into pastured pork, so out focus is on breeds that do well in a foraging and pasture based management system.  Once again, pigs are reasonably priced.  Another good argument for pigs is their varied diet.  These are yet another animal that you can feed table scraps.  My understanding is that fencing pigs is not to difficult.  They apparently train to electric fencing very easily.  I have read that pigs will train uickly to two hot wires.  One at about 9 inches off the ground and another at about 30 inches off the ground.  They will train so well in fact, that it is hard to get them to cross an area that previously had a fence across it.  Most articles I have found simply use polywire or another form of electrified temporary fencing like those used in rotational grazing systems.  (We like Tamworth and Gloucestershire Old Spots for pig breeds.  Red Wattles get an honorary mention)

Sheep:  I suppose sheep are in the fold here too.  Sheep are again easy to obtain and not too expensive.

High sheeps

High sheeps (Photo credit: Bertoz)

Uses for the sheep would be meat and wool.  We do not have sheep at the moment, as we do not see spinning our own wool.  Sheep are grazers, so now we are starting to look at more infrastructure.  They will likely need a barn, a yard and fencing.  This adds to the cost of them of course.  (We have yet to select a breed, though I am intrigued by the Romeldale breed.

Cattle:  I would recommend a good dual purpose breed, but you could have a dairy cow and beef cows.  Most true homesteads likely have a good old dairy cow on hand.  A dairy cow will likely cost about $1500 or so, depending on age, breed and quality.  Some decent cow can be purchase through sale barns for less money, but beware that the farmer is likely selling her through the sale barn for a reason.  Cattle require feed and infrastructure as well.  You will need a tie stall or other location for milking.  You will need fencing for the pasture, or else be ready to push a lot of hay and grain around.  (We think the the Red Poll cow is the perfect breed for this, as they are good foragers. grazers and they are dual purpose)  (Other breeds to consider would be Milking Devon, Shorthorn, Kerry, and Dexter)

I also recommend a good old farm dog.  They are great companions, good for security and even can help with some of the round up of the critters if trained to do so.  They can also be helpful with pests, such as the infamous “whistle pig” ( A.K.A. Groundhog.)

Hopefully I have touched on the main animals for homesteading.  If I have left any pertinent ones out, please let me know.  I am sure that some are fond of Llamas for guard animals protecting their flock of sheep.  Some may like Alpacas for the hair production.  I suppose that I left turkeys out as well.  They have their place too, just not at the top of my list.  Their place, to me, is on the thanksgiving table.

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Containing chickens

image

The Challenge of Containing Chickens

Containing chickens is perhaps one of the biggest challenges to raising free range chickens.  Our farm is a testimony to the wonderfully destructive nature of chickens.  Chickens have a natural tendency to scratch as they forage.  This behavior seems to give them a natural homing beacon for flower beds and the vegetable garden.  The best time of the year for our ladies appears to be immediately following the distribution of mulch in our flowerbeds.  It seems the the nice mulched look quickly gives way to the “mulch-all-over-the-yard” look.  Or perhaps it is better known as “mulch-on-the-walkways” look.
There are many opinions on containing chickens.  One opinion (which we have not tried partly due to cost) is that a six foot high fence system will keep the birds in their pens.  I do think this will work well, however the cost of this fence structure is very prohibitive.  The installation would likely need to be done by a professional.  A downfall of this system would be removal once the metal finally degrades.  I would suspect a 30 to 40 year lifespan, which would help to offset the cost or at least spread it out over the many years.

Another option for containing chickens is to put up woven wire fencing.  This typically comes in 48 inch high rolls that are in 100 or 300 foot lengths.  8 foot wooden posts are usually placed very 10 feet adding to the cost of this system.  I also believe that this system requires some poultry netting in addition to the woven wire, as the holes near the bottom are large enough for a hen to climb through.  (I have witnessed this firsthand).  Some people add a hot wire toward the bottom for both predator control and to encourage the chickens to stay contained within the fence.

Alternatively, people have used snow fencing.  Snow fencing should have close enough slat to contain chickens and to keep predators out.  Snow fencing would perhaps be a little unsightly.  There are two types of fencing that I refer to as snow fence.  The first is a combination of wire intertwined around one inch vertical slats.  The second is an orange, grid-shaped/ diamond patterned roll of flexible plastic.  Both would work well for chickens.

I suppose that some sort of high tensile could be used as well.  The wires would have to be numerous and spaced every inch or so toward the bottom, gradually increasing the distance in between the wires as the fence is built higher.  If electrified, this fencing system would perhaps keep chickens in and predators out.  The big downfall to this system would be the need for frequent weed control to keep the grass and weeds from contacting the lowest electrified wire….resulting in a short.

A traditional approach is to mount hexagonal chicken wire onto posts.  The posts can be either metal T-posts, or more permanent wooden posts.  This chicken wire has very small, hexagonal-shaped holes.  The holes are small enough to keep even the smallest peeps inside the pen.  The problem with this fencing system is the weakness of the wire itself.  If the posts are places close enough (6 to 8 feet apart) and the fencing is stretched fairly tight, the weakness may be overcome.
image

As seen in the picture above, we have elected to try a system called electric poultry netting.  We purchased two, 110 foot long rolls can a charger to electrify the fence.  We do have an occasional chicken that performs its own fly over, but the system has held up well so far.  One nice feature is that the fence is easy to move.  This allows us to change the range area that the chickens can access.  This allows the grass to recover from being eaten and trampled.  It also helps to spread the chicken manure around, thereby spreading out potential parasites and keeping the burden down in any one area. We have yet to attach the electric fence charger, due to lack of time (well actually simple laziness).  Even without the charger, the chickens stay in for the most part thanks to wing clipping.

On a side note:  We have likely had some coccidia, as we so not utilize coccidiostats.  We feel that this allows for a natural immunity once the birds have been infected.  By moving the pasture access. the coccidia does not concentrate in any one area.

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Filed under animals, Chickens, Farming, Fencing, Foraging, Free-range, Grassfed, Homesteading, Poultry

Post 200: Our Farming Principles

600 and 200:  What do those Numbers mean?  Well 600 is the number of views on the website and 200 is the number of posts.  This post represents the 200th overall post here at heritagebreedsfarm.com.  We are excited to have hit this milestone.  An interesting point to note is that today is the 264th day of the year.  This means that we have generated about 5 posts per week.

English: Three chicken eggs of contrasting col...

Well, with this milestone, I felt it appropriate to summarize what we represent and what we strive to achieve.  Our theories and principles are as follows:

  1. A return to the family farm.  We feel that nothing can be better than the farm life.  Though it can be hard and trying at times, there are many advantages to farming.  We believe that the farm life is centered around the family first.  We can teach our children to be helpful and responsible by raising animals.  If the animals are dependent upon them, it gives them a much greater sense of responsibility than simply whether or not they clean their rooms or take their dishes to the sink. We want to teach our children that their actions have an effect on life and lack of responsibility has consequences.
  2. A respect for the Creator‘s creation.  Not that I did not say respect for the environment.  I state it this way because God calls us to work the land and to be CARETAKERS.  Why the bold?  Well, unfortunately it seems as though Christians are opposed to environmentalism.  I believe that this is due to the fact that environmentalism is basically a religion that serves to worship the creation (environment) rather than the creator.  Yet, as Christians, we are called to protect the creation.  We practice organic practices for this reason.  God created this planet and I feel that we do not need toxic, synthetic chemicals to try to preserve it.  We simply need to not be destructive and truly care for the land, while using it at the same time.
  3. Organic Principles:  We promote organic principles, not only for the good of the land, but ultimately for the good of the consumer (us).  It is our belief that raising organic meat, eggs and vegetables is better for the end consumer due to fewer antibiotic residues and fewer chemical components potentially getting into the end product, such as the meat or eggs.
  4. Free ranging/ natural approaches.  We believe that not only is this better and more humane for the animal, but this produces a better end product as well.  An example of this practice is free range chicken eggs.  Click here to see why free range chicken eggs are superior to eggs produced by factory farming.
  5. Using Heritage Breeds.  We use heritage breeds as they are well-suited to produce in a smaller setting.  These breeds have fallen out of favor because they do not thrive in a factory farming environment.  Factory farming is set up based on intensive practices.  Animals are often fed a TMR (Total mixed ration) instead of a more natural roughage-based diet.  They are also fed grain-based diets in order to push them to higher production levels.
  6. Grass Fed Principles:  This may follow on the heels of the above principle, but it is important to what we believe.  Click HERE for a link to a posting regarding grass fed beef in particular.  Click HERE for the article about free range chicken eggs.
We would love for you to become a follower of our website.  Hopefully you find our principles and articles helpful.
Until Next Time!
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