Monthly Archives: May 2012

Hay has arrived

cattle_07

cattle_07 (Photo credit: NDSU Ag Comm)

Last night we were able to put up 38 round bales of hay.  This is a great start to next winter’s feed supply. Our neighbor cut, raked, tettered and baled the hay over the weekend and brought them up into the barn last night.  We are excited to have a great jump start for next season.  Now the challenge is to get some of the pasture eaten down by the cows that we have.  We may be in the market for a few more adult animals or steers that need to finish.  There is a total of about 12 acres that needs to be eaten, well more than our three adult cows will be able to eat.

We do not supplement our cattle at this time, featuring a grass fed beef program.  We hope to provide good, flavorful and nutritional meat once our calves finish out.  We also employ a hormone-free, organic program.  (We did not certify our land organic, but sprays and chemicals are not used on our farm).

Until Next Time

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Melons, pumpkins, squash and cucumbers

Today we finished out the garden by planting melons, cukes, zukes, squash and pumpkins.  We interplanted the melons with our corn to save some space. The zucchini was planted in mounds. We plant three zukes to a hill.
Our issue now is to thwart the dreaded squash vine borer.  Any tips?
I looked up the following tips to try.
The first tip was to put floating row covers on top of the vines. Apparantly the vine borer is only active in late June and early July. The adult looks something like a wasp and has a distinct buzzing sound. The eggs are laid on the stem of the plant and are small and brown. The larvae hatch out and then burrow into the stem of the plant.
Another method of control is chemical spraying. I would recommend finding an organic pyrethrin product.
Yet another method involves planting after the vine borer adult is active. This generally is after mid July. I will probably incorporate this idea this year.
One other method that I found interesting is to smother the stem of the vine with an insecticidal soap twice a week for late June through mid-July. This smothers the larva and eggs before they are able to either hatch or to penetrate the stem.
Of course there is always hand picking. This takes a lot of time and diligence. It also takes a really good set of eyes, as the eggs are 1/25th of an inch in size. The larvae are not much bigger.

Well good luck and I hope your garden is doing well.

Until next time….

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Slow going

I apologize for the delay of content lately.  I had my computer crash, so I am still dealing with that issue.  My posting ability is limited from my smartphone, but I will trudge on. 
I also have been delayed due to the content in the himesteading series.  The last post got to be really involved and long, so I actually broke it up into two installments.  The first installment should be available now.  The second installment will likely be delayed due to the computer issue and lack of time on this end.

As far as what is going on here on the farm, we have been busy in many ways.  First of all, work has been intense lately.  During the spring season, there tends to be an increase in emergencies with all of the foaling and birthing going on.  Second, we have been busy with spring cleanup outside.  There is always something to do!  Third,  we are in the midst of garden season.  We have already harvested lettuce and spinach.  A few radishes have finally matured.  We are pleased that the corn and beans are already up and cultivated. 
Today we hope to clean the camper, brush hog the pasture, plant some annuals, get and spread mulch and trim the bushes. 
Our big project right now is the roof on the detached garage…hopefully completed by the end of the day.  We hired that one out for the sake of time.
Until next time.

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Homesteading Series part 6 plant selection

So now we move on to the selection of plants.  Again this may be higher on the list, but we will discuss it here.  The reality is that all of these parts are intertwined.

Selection of plants can be broken down into several categories.  First we need to consider what the animals will be eating.  So one consideration is the pasture, the other consideration is the crops.  Second we will look at the garden plants.  Third, and finally, comes the orchard and berry plants.

Plants for the animals.

Pasture:

Crops. View from a bridleway. The different te...

Crops. View from a bridleway. The different textures and colours are created by barley in the foreground, wheat behind and young sweet corn to the right. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As can be noted from examining the blog here, we are fans of grazing systems.  This allows for less equipment and generally more self-sufficiency.  We prefer rotational grazing, but I digress.  So what plants do you want to have in your pastures?  Pasture should include one or two types of grasses.  Typical types include Fescue, Ryegrass,Timothy, Orchard Grass and Kentucky Bluegrass.  Other plants that are typically included in pasture are red clover, ladino clover, white clover and alfalfa.  It is recommended to have a variety of these plants within a given pasture to provide varying amounts of protein, vitamins, and mineral.  Certain plants also thrive at different times of the year.  By varying the types of plants within a given pasture, the grazing season can be extended both earlier and later in the year than normal.

Selecting Forage Crops

Carsington Pastures, Derbyshire

Carsington Pastures, Derbyshire (Photo credit: eamoncurry123)

Crops:

Perhaps crops are what many people think of when they think of plants on the farm.  Crops are used for many different purposes, the main one of which is food for the animals.  Field corn is a crop that is vital to many farming operations.  It is very versatile and can be fed to numerous species of animals.  Corn has traditionally been a very inexpensive feed source, though that had changed some with the subsidization of the ethanol fuel industry.  Soy beans are another crop that is grown in abundance in the United States.  It is used as a protein source and also as a way to fix nitrogen into the soil when used in a crop rotation.  Other crops that are commonly grown are Wheat, Barley, Rye, Oats, Spelts and many others.  Some of these, such as oats and wheat, can be used for two purposes.  The grain is harvested for use as a feed and the stalks can be harvested for use as straw (animal bedding).

Garden Plants

The vegetable garden is one of the main focal points of a homestead.  A garden serves to provide fresh food and also bountiful harvests that can be stored for winter usage.  The plants that can be grown in a garden are limitless.  We will discuss a few here, but the scope of this particular series does not permit for an in depth discussion.

USDA 98c0442

USDA 98c0442 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Sweet Corn is the starting point, as it is one of our favorites.  The only downside that I see with Sweet corn is the space required to grow it, though the space can be maximized by using interplanting (we plant melons within the rows of corn, which allows the melons to spread out.  Both melons and corn take a lot of space, but by growing them in the same row, we can capitalize on some of that space.)  Beans are another key crop.  We also raise green beans (Green Jade works well as a variety).  There are many types of beans, several of which can be dried.

Other vegetables that are traditional garden staples include lettuces, spinach, onions, beets, cucumber, zucchini, squash and many others. Heirloom vegetables are those that are passed from generation to generation. They serve to preserve the plant genetic variability. Heirloom plants (as long as they do not get cross pollinated) will produce seed that it is true, meaning that the seed can be saved and replanted. Once replanted, the seed will produce plants that are the same variety as the mother plant. Hybrids plants do not produce seeds that will grow predictable plant offspring. Oftentimes the seed is not viable. At other times , the seed will produce on of the parent varieties that was used to make the hybrid plant. An example of this is Incredible Sweet Corn. This is our favorite sweet corn. Saving the seeds and replanting them will usually produce a dent corn or field corn that was used in the cross pollination to get the incredible hybrid.
We utilize several varieties of heirloom vegetables so that we can save the seeds if desired. A few examples are blue hopi corn (Below)image

and golden bantam corn. Heirloom seeds can be purchased from several suppliers. We usually make our selection from Fedco Seeds.

Orchards and Berries

The third and final category for homesteading plants includes Orchards fruits and berries.  This category will be finished in another post due to space and time constraints.

Related articles

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Strange Weather

We went from this:

image

To this:

image

Within a 2 hour time frame.  We definitely needed the rain though!

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Strange Weather

We went from this:

image

To this :

In 20 minutes.

I love the storms that roll in. They are an awesome display of the earth’s power, given to it by our Creator.

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Homesteading Series Part 5: Containing animals

A sturdy and well-built post and rail fence

A sturdy and well-built post and rail fence (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Here we will specifically discuss fencing.  Fencing plans again depend upon the type of animal that you are trying to contain. I will try to lay this out in an organized fashion starting with types of fences. I will then try to cover fencing for various farm animals. These animals will include cattle, goats, sheep, pigs and horses. I will not attempt to cover chickens at this time ( other than to say clip their wings and make sure your tightly woven fence is tight against the ground).

Types of Fences

There many various ways to classify fencing. The first way to organize it is electrified versus non-electric. Another way is permanent versus temporary. For the purposes of this article, the focus will center around permanent fencing. Systems can be hybrid with permanent and temporary, but the perimeter fencing should be very solid and permanent (in the opinion of this author).

Closeup detail of a safe woven wire fence, sui...

woven wire fence(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are various type of materials that are used to make fencing. Focusing on the modern versions, there are hog paneling, woven wire, barbed wire, high tensile, polywire, vinyl and board fencing. Board

Roll of barbed wire on a farm

Roll of barbed wire on a farm (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

fencing, woven wire, and hog paneling are suitable for non electric systems. Vinyl may be considered here as well, though animals can lean on the vinyl and pop the rails off. I recommend adding one or two strands of high tensile along the top and bottom of vinyl fencing to prevent the animals from pushing the rails out. Barbed wired, high tensile and polywire are typically electrified. These systems can be non electric if enough horizontal wires are placed to make them visible. Most fencing is, after all, mainly a mental barrier and deterrent.

As for fence posts, the options here vary as well. Vinyl fencing utilizes vertical vinyl posts. Board fencing uses wooden posts. For the wire- type fences, posts materials vary from treated wood to cedar to locusts posts. They can also utilize t posts and even some specialized products like kencove posts.

As a side note when planning a fencing project, it is important to draw out the design in many fashions. Talk to other farmers or fence installers about your project.  Describe your setting, animals and goals. Mark out all of the gates that are needed. Gates are needed for entry to the field by the farmer, for equipment and for animals movement.

Cattle:

Cattle may be the easiest animals to contain, as long as they are well fed.  The grass is always greener on the other side, so cattle will test fences if better food is available across the fence.  I like electrified barbed wire or high tensile.  Two to three strands should suffice.  The lower strand should be about 24 inches off of the ground and the upper strand at 36 to 30 inches.  I like a wire in the middle as well.  Wooden fence posts should be placed at no more than 16 feet in order ro have better visibility.  Some places suggest further spacing, but I have found that our fence is great with posts every 16 feet.  Make certain to keep weeds off of the fence, otherwise a short will be created and it won’t take long for the cattle to figure out that the fence is off.  I suggest placing the wires on the outside of the fence posts, so that animals can graze around the base of the fencing.  This gives you more grazing space and less weed wacking.  Other options for cattle include board fence, vinyl and woven wire.  I would add a top strand of barbed wire or electrified high tensile at the tops of the 48 inch woven wire.

Closeup of a smooth wire fence without barbs

Closeup of a smooth wire fence without barbs (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Goats

Goats are more of a challenge due to their inquisitive nature.  Woven wire works very well for goats.  The can be deterred by electric fencing as well, but the fence must be solid and provide an adequate shock to keep them in.  Board fencing and vinyl fencing tend to leave larger gaps that the goats can get through or around.  These gaps can be closed using electric barbed wire or high tensile.

Barbed wire fence in west Texas

Barbed wire fence in west Texas (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Sheep

Sheep are basically like goats in their needs for fencing.  It is not their stubborn nor inquisitive nature that make them hard to fence.  The problem with them lies in the thick wool coat.  This prevents them from perceiving the chock of an electric fence.  Woven wire seems to be the best for sheep, though multiple high tensile strands can works as well.  The strands should be placed at 6, 12, 18, 24, 36, and 48 inches from the ground on up.

Horses

DNA tested homozygous black Arabian Stallion s...

 vinyl fence  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Horses love to lean on fences.  They also like to hang their heads over the fence, looking for food to graze upon.  They can be kept in with just about any fencing system.  Traditional horse people tend to prefer either board fence or vinyl fencing foe aesthetic purposes.  One major advantage to these is the decrease in injury potential.  Barbed wire and high tensile work well with horses, but can cause serious injury if the horse gets a leg tangled up in the strands.  Fence posts should be placed no further apart than 16 feet, as the visibility goes down for a horse after that point.

Pigs

Again, I am going from what I have read, not what I have done.  I have read that pigs can be easily trained to electric fencing.  Their snouts are very sensitive.  In fact, they are very conducive to rotational grazing, but be careful where you leave the gates.  It seems that pigs have a good memory, so much that they are reluctant to cross where an electric strand previously stood. The bottom wire is generally set at 5 or 6 inches and the top wire at 10 or 12 inches.  They will train quickly according to several sources that I discovered.  There are other options as well.  Hog paneling is meant for pigs (hence the name….).  Premier Supplies makes several electric netting options for hogs as well.

http://www.greatamericanegg.com/blog/?p=89

I hope that this article has been helpful.  I know that it just touched the surface of a very complex issue.  This is meant to be something to stimulate thought and provide a basis to start.  Good luck and keep raising your homestead, taking more control of what you eat and what you do.

We recently built a fence, which we had designed.  Our intent was to keep costs low, yet be able to try to contain all of the above animals.  The fence that we elected is 6 strand of high tensile, smooth wire fencing.  We placed three large gates to move animals and equipment in and out of fields.  We also placed two other 4 foot “man gates” in other locations for easier access to the fields.  The strands are laid out at 5 inches, 10 inches, 16 inches, 24 inches, 30 inches, and 48 inches.  We electrified the top strand, the third strand down and the second lowest strand.  We went with this number of strands in order to have a sturdy fence that works even without being electrified.   It seems to be working well, though we only have cattle so far.

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Homesteading Series Part 4: Buildings

So what building are you going to need?  Again this post might have been better served to come before the post on animals, but I see the information organized a bit differently.  I am viewing this as a planning strategy, not the implementation of that strategy.

Again, I am assuming that the house has been planned or even built at this stage. So we are focused on other buildings here. I refer to these as outbuildings and the barn.

The Big Barn

The Big Barn (Photo credit: Nine is the Magic Number)

Likely the main building that you will need is the barn itself, though a large barn might not be needed for all situations. I would design a homesteading barn with a center alleyway . At each end of the alleyway, I would place a solid, yet lightweight, sliding door with latches. The purpose of the alleyway is to allow good access through the barn for equipment. It also allows easy access to stalls and pens.

I would likely have an open area with four to six headlocks, where I could milk cows and goats. This area would have stanchions and a gutter behind it. I would prefer to bed this area with sand or sawdust to keep it clean. A cabinet and grain storage area would be located close to the milking area. I would also place a washroom nearby. The washroom would have places to wash and store the milking supplies and bottles for calves.

Moving further down the barn, I would have two horse stalls and then several larger pens. I could use these as birthing pens or to separate animals by species, age, or sex during times when they need to be penned in (likely in the winter).

Other things that I would consider in my barn would be a possibly pigpen and/or a chicken coop attached. These would be optional depending upon what I desired for the other outbuildings and the remainder of my set up. A good, large area to store hay, feed, and supplies is needed as well. I would likely build a bank barn and keep the feed on the upper floor. I would try to think of other places to store the hay, as hay gets very dusty and messy. For those of us with allergies, a top level hay mow allows for the fine dist particles to filter down below, causing a lot of dust and allergens to build up in the air. This can also lead to “heaves” in horses.

I would consider building a portion of the upper part of the barn for storage of equipment, depending upon what equipment I was going to be using. I would also build an upper hay mow if room permitted.

Following the barn, several other building merit consideration. The first of these is the tool shed. I envision a smaller building suitable for containing the rakes, hoes, shovels and other tools. It would be larger enough to contain the lawn mower and other necessary items such as hoses.

An additional building is the equipment shed. In this building is where the larger equipment would be stored. Items such as a tractor, hay rake, baler, wagons, corn planters, discs, corn pickers and other larger equipment. Again the need for this building will vary depending on the homestead size and functionality.

Other buildings to consider depend upon need and what is already established. I like our chicken coop, so I would recommend a small building for that function. Another building to consider is a goat or sheep building (again depending upon the barn set up) I would keep this building rather simple. Perhaps two to four pens would suffice. Sheep and goats do well eating from a feeder, so a rack of feeders should be built in. I would build an area to milk the goats and/ or sheer the sheep.

I hope that this stimulates planning and thinking. I will qualify this by stating that I have never started a homestead from scratch and I do not have all of the answers. I simply mean to get my ideas in print and hopefully help somebody else along the way. I am certain that this series is not exhaustive.

Other things to consider as far as building would be more food storage and possibly a place to slaughter animals, likely more in the winter months.

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Finally a heifer

Third and final cow calved today.  We had a very nice looking heifer.  That makes two big old bull calves and one heifer.  She is a keeper and will be a nice addition to our small herd.

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A hiatus

Sorry to anybody eagerly anticipating the next installment of the homesteading series (Mom that means you….).  Things have been busy here,  or at least they seem very busy.  A brief update on happenings.
We have two live bull calves on the ground.  Both appear to be growing well and are healthy and happy.  They each got their ear tag identifications placed last Saturday.  That was quite a fun time.  Thanks to DIY at tinkererstoolchest for your help. 
Our oldest is playing softball this year, so there are to twice a week practices, which lead to twice a week games.  She is learning a lot and hitting the ball very well.
Our cold frame plants are doing well, though we almost cooked them when we forgot to open the frame one day.  Fortunately most have survived.
I celebrated a big old birthday the other day.  I was excited to get a hand cultivator, which made it much faster to work the garden.  I still love my stirrup hoe for cultivating around and near plants, but the hand cultivator just ripped through the soil and busted out those nasty weeds.image

Other than that, time seems to fly by.  Hopefully corn and beans will be planted by the end of the weekend.  We are glad to get the garden going finally!
Until next time!

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